Veterans Day 2014

I spent this Veterans Day here in S. Korea and it has been right up there with my most memorable for a few reasons.

The first is because I attended Chief Warrant Officer 5 Ralph Rigby's birthday party.

At least that is what he called it. Actually CW5 retired after serving for 42 years and is the last continuously serving Vietnam War draftee. His Mom, Dorothy, standing next to him at the ceremony smiled when he recollected his reaction to being drafted. He was going to move to Canada which was close to their up-state New York home and could visit periodically. But Dorothy wouldn't have it, "We do not quit in this family!" 

CW5 receiving his ROK wings from Gen Chun

Rigby's first and last assignment...S. Korea. He will be missed.

The second reason is because I attended the Veterans Day ceremony on Camp Red Cloud.

They played all the service melodies where the representing service members stood and sang. It was the first time I had heard the ROK service members sing their song and it was very moving.

Col (R) William M. Alexander then gave a wonderful speech on the history of how Veterans Day came about and Medal of Honor recipient Ronald E. Rosser who served with the 2ID in the Korean War and a touching tribute to his father who also served.

But I can't let Veterans Day pass without out mentioning our soldiers in Afghanistan. I was hoping at this time last year we would be out of Afghanistan.

49 service members were Killed In Action during 2014 as of October. May they Rest In Peace. Please thank the next service member you see for their service today and everyday.

All photos by 2ID photographer PAK

Freedom of Speech

Freedom of speech is alive and well in the Republic Of Korea. As an American I feel very proud of this as I know we had an important part in their freedom. Living in South Korea I eagerly watch as the South Koreans are afforded a life full of promise.

Today in the province of Dongduchon, just outside the gates to the US Military base Camp Casey there was a large, but peaceful protest complete with a Korean drum performance and coffee the national drink. During the time I was there it was mostly older people who had relatives or whom themselves fought in the Korean War or remember it's suffering first hand.

Rarely have I seen so many older ladies out making a statement of participation.

The reason for the protest is that the ROK government along with the US government have decided to keep the Forward Operating Base known as Camp Casey, 11 miles south of the DMZ. Camp Casey was supposed to be downsized in the summer of 2015 allowing for a southern move of US forces. 

This decision is against what the people of Dongduchon want. However, the people of Dongduchon make it quite clear, according to Roh So hyun whom I spoke with, that they are not angry with the US government, but the S. Korean government for making this decision against their wishes. 

They held the protest outside of Camp Casey to bring attention to the protest. Tomorrow there will begin a protest in front of a Republic Of Korea government building.

Sewol Ferry - update

It's been awhile since I've posted because a day here in S. Korea seems like a week with all that happens. But since I doubt that most Americans have heard the news regarding the Sewol Ferry tragedy where more than 300 people were drowned or are missing, mostly Danwon High School students, I thought I'd start here.

Life in Korea sometimes resembles a soap opera, the truth is stranger than fiction.

After the disaster:

Danwon High School's Vice Principal, Kang Min-Kyu who had been rescued from the ferry, committed suicide.

The de-facto owner of the operator of Sewol ferry: Yoo Byung-eun went missing. He was the nation's most wanted fugitive and 1.3 million police mobilized in his manhunt for an unprecedented W500,000,000 ($486,500) reward. There were rumors he escaped to a foreign location with the aid of his brother-in-law. France denied him safe haven or sanctuary since he was a wanted criminal.

Six weeks went by when they found his remains in a field 2.5 km from his villa in Suncheon, S. Jeolla. He was lying on his back in a winter jacket. His body was very decomposed, but they were able to take a finger print off of his right index finger. While his head was separated from his body, he was still wearing a hat.

The National Police Commissioner General Lee Sung-han resigns. Lee, a veteran police officer with more than 30 years of experience in the investigative agency. It wasn't determined until June 6th several months later that the body they had found was Yoo Byung-eun.

Three days later Yoo Dae-kyun, Yoo Byung-eun's son was picked up in a southern suburb of Seoul and arrested. His mother, Yoo Byung-eun's wife, Kwon Yoon-ja, was arrested last month and their daughter, Yoo Som-na, has been fighting an extradition order from Paris.

There has been a hunger strike by family members of those killed in the ferry accident in Gwanghwamun square in central Seoul for more than 3 weeks.

Admiral Yi Sunshin overlooks children playing while Sewol parents mourn

 

 The strikers demand expedition of parliamentary passage of a special law to determine the cause of the disaster. They were recently joined by singer Kim Jang-hoon. After fasting for 4 days, Kim performed a concert to mark the 100th day after sinking.

Fifteen Sewol crew members are currently on trial, including the captain and 3 senior officers who are accused of "homicide through willful negligence" a charge that carries the death penalty. The bulk of the charges arise from the fact that they chose to abandon the ferry while hundreds of people were trapped inside.

August 10, the government announced plans to bolster regulations on drunken sailing, a move that comes in line with enhanced public awareness on marine safety following the disaster. I'm not sure if this regulation intimates the crew was drinking as that story has not been released.

The mood here in S. Korea is grim as the tragedy of the Sewol search mission continues. As I travel around this beautiful country of lovely people I am reminded on a daily bases of their sadness. The rain falling is like tears from the sky, the weather hampering the search for missing family members.

S. Korea will survive this as it has survived the separation of families torn apart by the 38th parallel. But this disaster will remain in everyone's heart and we will not forget. Each time I see a Ferry or look to the waterways, I will remember the children sleeping in the sea.

Yellow ribbons hung by people wishing for the safe return of the missing passengers blow in the wind as a person sits alone on the seawall on Jindo Island on Thursday. (Yonhap)

Freedom American Style in South Korea CALFEX

Rodriquez Range

Dusting off my reporting skills I attended Operation Foal Eagle CALFEX (Combined Arms Live Fire Exercise) up at Rodriquez Range in Pocheon, S. Korea.

There must have been about 30 reporters and journalists there to report on the exercise. I went for a different reason, but I wasn't sure what it was until I drove past the Security Guard quarters to the gate. I observed three protestors peacefully demonstrating that they want Peace and not War.


There was my story. No, not the fact that there were people in S. Korea that wanted peace and not war, who in their right mind doesn't want peace, but it is the fact that they CAN protest about it.

A couple of days before I was at Rodriquez Range attending a 'Memorandum of Understanding' (MOU) between the ROK mechanized 8th Infantry and the US 2nd Infantry Division honoring 60 years of the ROK Alliance.  Not a legally enforceable document, but a tool to help strengthen the relationship among the participants and giving the residents of Pocheon-si that reside around Rodriquez Live Fire Range, a vehicle to voice complaints.

(L to R)
Gen Thomas Vandal Command General 2ID, Mr. SEO, Jan Won Mayor Pocheon City, Mr. Yoo, Jae Hwan Head of Local Residents and Maj Gen Jegal, Yong Ju Command Gen 8th Mechanized Infantry

Attending the MOU and listening to Mr. Yoo, Jae Hwan Head of the Local Residents voice his concerns at first made me groan. It was just like in America regarding residents who move near an airfield and complain about the air traffic or people who move near a railroad track and complain about the train whistle warning of it's approach. But suddenly, when I realized what was really happening, I was filled with pride.

At the CALFEX a reporter voiced her story about the expense of staging a two prong attack with 350 military personnel Blackhawk helicopters, Kiowa Warrior helicopters, ROK K1 armored tanks, personal carriers and 105mm Howitzers and how that money spent could be better used to help the poor. At the time of writing this blog I do not know the percentage of participation between the Department of Defense and the ROK.

Myself with Lt. Sang eun Jeong
Lt. Sang joined the military because her Grandfather was a soldier. 

But here I am thousands of miles away from the United States of America;  through our friendship and alliance with S. Korea and our presence, they have the freedom to voice their opinions and concerns. Freedom is priceless, people will fight for it, shed blood and die for it. 

Learning from an 18th Century Scholar

Those living in a foreign country all know of the benefits and difficulties. Being an optimistic person I like to focus on the benefits and what I can learn from our differences. Apparently this isn't a new idea in Korea.

In the 1700's a scholar, Park Jiwon wrote about what society can learn from the needs of practical or ordinary people, a defamiliarzation.

Park Jiwon is regarded as one of the greatest thinkers of the so-called "Practical Learning" movement.

Living in S. Korea or the Republic of Korea ROK as it is more commonly known here I see an amazing blend of old and new.

Just wandering though the streets you see the modern mixed in with the ancient.

S. Korea is going through a renaissance. The change is amazing and overwhelming even to me who has only been here a few months. I only hope that the 'new' emphasis to retain the Korean culture and past continues and the ROK doesn't dissolve into another westernized society.

Because of all the construction of mega apartment buildings and the fact that there are approximately 22 million (yes) people in Seoul alone, space is very limited, but the Korean genius has found a way to include parking realizing the vehicle is not just a convenience anymore. You can imagine the spaces are very small. This is why your side mirrors on your car fold back...so you can get out of your car after you back into your parking space.

Here is a space designated just for women. It is larger and easier to back into. While this may be sexist to some of you I think it's great because I live here. The S. Korean's are very honorable and you would never find a man backing into this space, for numerous reasons. I'm sure eventually they will begin to designate these spaces...bad parker. I'd like to see the sign for that!

On a side note:

From the latest State Department Briefing.

QUESTION: I have a question on – about a recent missile launch talking about North Korea. This is their second in the last week. I want to know if the State Department has a response to their latest provocative action.

MS. PSAKI: Sure. Well just to repeat for those of you who are not focused on this at this moment, let me just give you a little more information. According to U.S. Government information, North Korea launched two Scud class short-range ballistic missiles from its southeast coast Monday morning. Both missiles flew in a northeasterly direction and landed in the sea. We are continuing to closely monitor North Korean activities and intentions, and we’re closely monitoring the situation on the Korean peninsula.

We urge North Korea to refrain from provocative actions that aggravate tensions, and instead focus on fulfilling its international obligations and commitments, including by abiding with the United States – United Nations Security Council Resolution 1718, 1874, and 2094. Scud missile launches are a violation of these UN Security Council resolutions. These resolutions require North Korea to abandon its ballistic missile program in a complete, verifiable, and irreversible manner. So we urge North Korea to exercise restraint and take steps to improve its relations with its neighbors. The onus is on North Korea to refrain from provocations.

Read more: http://iipdigital.usembassy.gov/st/english/texttrans/2014/03/20140304295315.html?CP.rss=true#ixzz2v2R3me00

Adventure

To most people having an adventure means going on an unusual trip that will test your physical and mental abilities. For instance last evening I was watching an adventure cyclist, Rob Lilwall ride his bike across Tibet into India. One doesn't usually think that doing mundane daily activities can be an adventure…they haven't lived in S. Korea!

In S. Korea, venturing off a U.S. military base is definitely an adventure. Where I live, in Uijongbu, most people do not speak English…any English, except customary phrases like yes or Happy New Year, which doesn't mean they comprehend, sort of like my Korean. In necessity I have gotten very good at Charades. The problem comes when you are dealing with a machine.

My husband and I just wanted to go to the movies. I had gotten very good at traversing the traffic and parking structure in the Shinsegae Mall, it's the only place I've found that replicates shopping at home; so I go there often. After being directed to our parking space, we took the escalator to the top floor where the movie theater was. We didn't care what we saw, we just wanted to go to a movie in a theater.

From first look the theater looks just like a regular theater. These people are all standing in line for snacks and tickets. We stood in the line for the tickets waiting with hopeful hearts there would be something we wanted to see at a somewhat convenient time as we were all ready there. 

Then we came to this. It took us a while to find the English button. We pressed, but it wasn't as helpful as we could have wanted. Finally, after staring at the screen for 5 minutes we ascertained that there were two movies we could watch that were in English. One was an animated children's movie which we nixed and the other was in English, but not sure what it was about. We chose the latter, or tried to. After selecting two tickets several times we finally realized the seats are designated and there was only one seat remaining in the theater! 

We went home, ordered another movie from Amazon, made hot cocoa with peppermint schnapps and relaxed, promising ourself we will try again, maybe.

N. Korea S. Korea Family

Family. We all have family, one way or another. It's odd to imagine family you are not allowed to visit, especially in this day and age. Not just visit physically, but using technology, no email, no FaceTime or Skype, no phone calls, nothing.

Today is the final day of reunions that start last week and were the first since 2010. They are unlikely to happen again soon and most have not seen each other since the Korean War ended in 1953. The Korean War ended with a cease fire, not a peace treaty, technically leaving the two Koreas still at war.

The reunions are part of a key inter-Korean deal meant to improve bilateral relations that worsened last year due to the North's third nuclear test and its threats of war against Seoul and Washington. After the North demanded that Seoul postpone its yearly military exercise it backed down in a rare concession.

"The time has come to tear down the wall that has separated the two Koreas over the last 70 years," Lee Chung-bok, North Korea's vice chief of the General Guidance Bureau.



South Korean Lee Oh-soon, 94, left, weeps with her North Korean brother Jo Won Je, 83, after the Separated Family Reunion Meeting at Diamond Mountain in North Korea



Tearful: South Koreans hold hands with their North Korean family members (pictured inside bus) before they are separated again.



South Korean Lee Yong-sil (right), 87, cries after meeting her North Korean daughter Dong Myung-suk, 66, during their family reunion.

Ambassador

Being an American citizen and living in a foreign country makes you nothing less than an Ambassador of your country. It always surprises me when foreigners complain about how something is less than, in my case, American or behave badly, litter or disrespect common curtesy. Living in a foreign country is an amazing opportunity that you as the foreigner should embrace.

As an Army wife I feel I represent America two fold. I represent my country as a citizen and as a military wife.

Being in the military is a juxtaposition of sort because Army bases in foreign countries are considered American soil. However, most of the service staff is from the foreign country and in my case Korean. By being friendly and sincere this affords me an informal way of learning customs and sayings to help me along in the outside world off base.

I also get wonderful opportunities to do things most American citizens don't get to do like visiting The U. S. Ambassador Residence.

Karen Devins and me outside of the U.S. Ambassador Residence to the Republic of Korea

Ambassador Residence

The Ambassador Residence is part of an awesome artists program started in the 1960's and formalized by President John F. Kennedy. Art In Embassies (AIE) curates temporary and prominent exhibitions for the representational spaces of all U. S. chanceries, consulates, and embassy residences worldwide, selecting and commissioning contemporary art from the U.S. and host countries. 

This landscape is by Kyung-Min Nam, Seoul, South Korea

During this past week Secretary of State John Kerry was visiting Seoul and meeting with President Park Geun-hye. Korea was his first stop of a multi-nation trip to Asia meant in part to solidify efforts for dealing with North Korea and its increasingly sophisticated nuclear weapons programs. 

Ambassadors come in various forms, but all represent a belief. 

Dennis Rodman in N. Korea

Ex-NBA star Dennis Rodman visits North Korean dictator Kim Jong Un for his birthday

Rodman brought a roster of former NBA All-Stars, including Kenny Anderson, Vin Baker and Cliff Robinson. Former Knick Charles Smith also came along for the ride. Rodman has an unlikely friendship with the murderous Korean dictator.

Read more: http://www.nydailynews.com/news/world/worm-touches-north-korea-dictator-birthday-article-1.1567405#ixzz2pfp34rhR

The State Department released this today:

QUESTION: Do you have anything to say about Dennis Rodman and his band of basketball players going to --

MS. HARF: I don’t think that I do. We haven’t been contacted by Mr. Rodman about his trip. We obviously recommend against all travel to North Korea by U.S. citizens.

QUESTION: I think he’s the only one – only person in the United States and like can meet – who can meet with Kim Jong-un. So it’s --

MS. HARF: Well, again --

QUESTION: I do want to ask you about some of his comments. He said, I think, something along the lines of, “I don’t want to save the world. I’m not here to save Kenneth Bae. That’s not my job.”

MS. HARF: Okay.

QUESTION: I was just wondering if you had --

MS. HARF: If I have a response?

QUESTION: Yeah.

MS. HARF: Well, obviously, securing Kenneth Bae’s release is a top priority for us. We have said repeatedly that he needs to be returned home to his family, but Dennis Rodman is technically right. He’s not there as a representative of the U.S. Government trying to affect anything. We weren’t contacted by him and he’s not there representing us.

QUESTION: So you don’t expect anything?

MS. HARF: I just said Dennis Rodman is right. That’s – mark this down as a historic day for this podium.

QUESTION: (Laughter.)

MS. HARF: I just don’t know. We haven’t been in contact with him.

Read more: http://iipdigital.usembassy.gov/st/english/texttrans/2014/01/20140107290058.html?CP.rss=true#ixzz2pfpqnuZK

What is this really about? Why is Dennis Rodman bringing a basketball team to N. Korea? Why does Dennis Rodman keep coming here? What is going on and what will happen if Kim Jong Un doesn't like it when his exhibition team beats the N. Korean's in basketball…will they all be purged?